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Bike ride from Avatoru to Tiputa, Rangiroa

Posted on January 19, 2009 by: Traveler

Closest City: Avatoru and Tiputa, Rangiroa
State:
Country: French Polynesia

For five days, Danielle and I stayed at Miki Miki Village in the town of Avatoru, on the island of Rangiroa in French Polynesia. Our beach bungalow sat right on the edge of the picturesque Rangiroa lagoon and rented bicycles became our mode of transportation to go buy “groceries” (Hinano beer) and explore. During our time on this island we snorkeled in “our” lagoon, went scuba diving, visited the Blue Lagoon and on our last day continued exploring the island on our rickety bicycles. We rode from Avatoru Pass, on the western side, to Tiputa Pass, approximately ten kilometers to the east. This section of the island is separated by numerous shallow channels, called hoas and is comprised six individual motus all connected by one main road. (The six motus; Avatoru, Vaimate, Tevaiohie, Ariataea, Taamoi and Reporepo.)

Armed with our outstanding riding machines, we headed west toward Avatoru, and our island exploration began! Since we’d come here on a daily basis because of it’s proximity to Miki Miki Village, we were familiar with the beautiful and unique elements of Avatoru Pass. A Catholic church adorned with an intricately decorated shrine was situated on the corner of the lagoon and the edge of the pass. Here, islanders fished and children played in the surf of the incoming tide. We walked along the Pacific Ocean side of Rangiroa where the shore was not sandy but instead, made up of broken coral pieces that were bleached white from the intense sun and pounding surf.

-Geography lesson- Rangiroa is made up of motus that are separated between passes (deep water breaks) and channels (shallow containing hardly any water). These narrow pieces of land average approximately 300 yards wide and are actually all that remain from the rim of ancient volcanoes. The reefs of the Tuamotu islands are found inside of the lagoons and along the passes like Tiputa and Avatoru on Rangiroa.

Passing over a couple hoas, riding east into uncharted territory, we were amazed at how skinny the island really was. From most locations on the island, it’s hard to see the ocean side and the lagoon side in one glance because of the think vegetation. But at the hoas, small bridges connected from motu to motu and the width of the island was only a couple hundred feet. Both the lagoon and ocean could be seen at the same time, incredible! Continuing down the main road, we passed the College of the Tuamotus. This is the higher education center for more than 400 students from this island, Fakarava, Manihi, Tikehau and other northern Tuamotu islands. Next, we came across a restaurant called Le Kai Kai. Our proprietors took us to this establishment for our first night’s dinner, and was an amazing introduction to island eating. Danielle still raves about Le Kai Kai’s coconut soufflé to this day. (Even now, years later, I’ll ask where she’d like to go eat, and without skipping a beat, Danielle responds, “Le Kai Kai!” So yes, it was that good.) Occasionally, little go-cart type vehicles would pass us by. (Don’t know how to describe them other than a two-seater with large wheels up front and a mini “training” wheel in the center back. Check out our YouTube video of Rangiroa to see one in action!) We passed by the Rangiroa airport (consisting of three buildings) and numerous other spots that we enjoyed simply stopping at to take it all in, like the palm-lined path leading to the TopDive dive shop.

With Tiputa Pass just under 2 km away, and ready for a break, we pulled into the Kia Ora Hotel for lunch. The Kia Ora Hotel was probably one of the nicest properties I saw on any of the seven islands we had visited, and is recognized as “The supreme symbol of luxury hotels in the Tuamotus” by our Lonely Plant guide book. The restaurant was situated nicely next to their infinity pool, which blended seamlessly to the lagoon beyond. And then there was the lagoon itself. We had a drink at the over-the-water-bar and counted stingray through the clear floors. On-site are numerous pirogue style kayaks for a little rowing adventure and bicycles were free (to hotels guest only). The little go-cart type vehicles were from this location (for rent by all). Tours depart from the Kia Ora Hotel to places such as the Blue Lagoon and Les Sables Roses (a pink sand beach at the southeast edge of the lagoon near Motu Vahituri). I’m sure they would even schedule a boat for the intrepid adventurers wanting to see the less traveled L’lle aux Recifs (The Island of Reefs); coral outcrops on the ocean side of the island with channels and basins for swimming in. The Kia Ora Hotel also has a property on the opposite side of the Rangiroa lagoon called Kia Ora Sauvage. The word Sauvage refering to “savage” and we were told the only thing savage about it was no electrical energy. How do they keep the Hinano beer cold? I’m pretty sure there are worse thing than having to live like a savage at night with only candlelight. The property of the Kia Ora Hotel is beautiful and Danielle and I will definitely stay in the over-water-bungalows if we ever venture back out to this island. Who knows though, with so many other islands needing to be explored. Ok, I’m done raving about this hotel other than to say one last time that it was bitchin looking!

Bellies full and temperature a little cooler, we set off for Tiputa Pass. From the western edge of Tiputa Pass, Danielle and I could see the water flowing out due to the low tide. It was amazing to see an actual flow of water, like a river flowing through the middle of the pass. When we dove the pass on a “drift dive” it was during the high tide when the water filled the lagoon from the incoming tide. Riding in a zodiac boat to the far (ocean) side of the pass was like riding a class 3 river with scuba gear. It was neat to see now, how large the pass appeared from the shoreline; I didn’t really take notice while actually out on the water. The end of the road was kind of anti-climatic with only a small dock and no real views of, well, anything but water. Tiputa was quieter and more secluded than Avatoru; we didn’t mind that at all. After making it to our destination, and soaking it all in, we turned around and enjoyed the ride back to Miki Miki Village. On this last afternoon on the island of Rangiroa, our minds had begun to wander to our next island destination… Fakarava.